Resort 2014- (A little less) Volume, Color and Midriffs
Perhaps there are too many collections? Perhaps Resort just suffers because the weather is too good to stay indoors and attend shows? Perhaps the creative fires burn low when designers are strained by relentless schedules of roll outs to satiate the never ending demands of easily bored consumers?
Whatever, Resort 2014 seemed like a baby step evolution from Fall 2012/3, Spring 2013 and Pre-Fall 2013. A lot of the same colors, shapes and themes stayed around with slight variations that hinted at more radical things to come.
For instance, Balenciaga’s black and white (b/w) palette repeated itself in boxy shapes, only waking us up with a new crisp architecture in the volume. Wang continued this in his T by Alexander Wang line. Erdem could have been Balenciaga for all the b/w, square cuts. Burberry Prorsum was also guilty of b/w and sheer self plagiarism. Marc Jacobs‘ Resort was basically exhausted models from all Jacobs’ prior shows throwing their stripes, Hitchcock-ian fur pelts, and pjs down in a pile and collapsing onto all of them. Louis Vuitton appeared to be a similar showing of less-wasted models. Even Chanel had nothing new. Ditto Elizabeth & James.
Usually standouts, Proenza Schouler clearly need more rest as their Resort was narrowed to volumes of b/w only.
New designer, Cedric Charlier apparently got a discount on b/w and emerald fabric which he color-blocked with yellow and blue.
Refreshingly, some designers made a greater effort. With these more daring designers, volume continued as a theme, but tamed and tempered in suit friendly adaptations. Bold color was also employed an easy way out of b/w overplay. Acne reused some of the volume but tied it in with well-placed belting and cool color combinations. Peter Piletto and Pucci turned out color kaleidoscope prints on structured shapes.
McQueen moderated abundance of fabric with layered pockets that look delightful to wear. Alexander Wang‘s main line took a newer direction and that was downtown urban. Rag & Bone, as always, did cool girl better than anyone else (yes Mr. Wang) and left the white out of b/w.
Raf Simmons took Dior’s Resort in a new direction with an injection of color tempered by copper and bronze tones. Copper and bronze also freshened up Lanvin’s gorgeous Resort line. Gucci, too glistened with roomy bronze and copper setting afire calmer blues and oranges.
Ralph Lauren turned b/w into black/pastel but repeated that trademark Gatsby-ian WASP style his house is known for. Carolina Herrera was similarly true to brand with extremely pretty stripes made fresh in a multitude of color as opposed to b/w and running off in all directions like a .
Thankfully, Herve Leger returned to basics with figure hugging cuts, a departure from 2013’s drape-y, ethnic gypsy look. Bandage is what Leger does best really and he should stick to it.
Also repetitive in brand and volume was Mary Katrantzou. Katrantzou’s cut, however, livened up her Resort and could be likened to Spring 2013’s Proenza Schuler or an early, more artistic Erdem.
Alice + Olivia showered the runway with a flirty, girly line up with pleats, shorts and mid-riff bearing styles. Color punched up the b/w canvas. Similar story at Diane Von Furstenberg with the addition of wrap dresses and full pants ala Mary Tyler Moore or DVF herself.
Even though it was just a reissuing of safari, leather and peplums Dsquared2’s Resort was likable. Not lovable. We know the boys who brought us ice-skating high heels can do better. Clearly, they need a few months off in the Canadian north territory playing with malamutes and melting snow for water.
Versace moved on from the Vunk ,going more formal with punchy suiting. On the other hand, J. W. Anderson for Versus kept the vunk thing coming full force, parading out Madonna club kids parodies. A 70’s style everyone is ashamed of-only worse.
After a few disappointing shows, Cushnie et Ochs came alive again, getting b/w and Punky bondage right this time with a little bit of vampy red, chartreuse and nude. Their body con shapes may have been a throw back to 2011, but it works.
Derek Lam reissued b/w roomy combos for his 10 Crosby St. line while progressing his eponymous line beyond a 2013 rehash.
Reminiscent of your favorite Hermes scarf was Bibbu Mohapatra’s collection, rich in green and blues set against each other like sexy, body hugging peacock feathers. His pinks fluid and charming.
For a true Resort theme, Mayiet took us away with easy, breezy, high-end vacay ensembles. They were different from most others but possibly not couture league.
Of all the Resort 2014 collections, Saint Laurent Paris totally threw away the volume of 2013 and in doing so, managed to roll out a rockingly good show. SLP retained the best of past seasons’ trends, updating them with slim, snap to form cuts as shown in their Sasha Pivovarnova-fronted campaign. Heidi Slimane optimized b/w, sheer, navel- bottoming necklines and leather trends of so many collections past into an enviable posh post-punk/grunge, totally modern and totally cool decadence. I want more!
Key resort trends: B/W, red, pink, blue, copper, bronze, mustard, deconstructed or divided color blocking, wayward stripes, houndstooth, sheer, volume, menswear girlified, boxy cut jackets and tops, more pjs (God!), mid-riffs, leather, sculptural dresses, trenches, full 70’s pants and wrap dresses.