Jewelers of America
Jewelers of America New York (JANY) held their well attended Winter show at Jacob Javits from March 1-4. JANY’s winter show is not only a much needed harbinger of spring but also a serious forum for those in the fine jewelry market. Group show director Drew Lawsky offers a comfortable presentation outlet of dealers as well as forums and workshops for participants.
“Designed By Women For Women” is the slogan for Gumuchian, an Antwerp based jewelry house owned and designed by the Gumuchian matriarchy of Anita Gumachian and her daughters Myriam and Patricia. All jewelry is of high quality metals and gems manufactured in NYC. Expect a continental version of Asprey. While there is a lot to offer in Gumachian’s classic line, their elegant artistry comes out in the G Boutique series of 4 themes: Gallup, an equestrian inspired range, Nutmeg, pretty floral designs, Kelly, 4-leaf clover themed and the Ring Cycle, also known as “Transformer jewelry.” Ring Cycle pieces fold and refold from rings to bracelets to earrings. If you frequently find yourself in boring meetings at work or with mandatory friends, a Ring Cycle piece can be a lifesaver and less rude than constantly checking phone messages. Prices are quite reasonable with Gumachian recommending a 3x mark-up.
With a solid reputation and business in Europe, Facet Barcelona is launching its third year in the US market. Facet states a mission of providing a constantly updated catalogue of competitively prices high quality stones sourced in accordance with Global Compact (furthering ecological practices) and Kimberly Process (non-conflict aka blood diamonds) standards in 18k settings. At JANY, Facet was showcasing its gem slices, which lay flat on the body and are more modern than traditional, and tiered pendants found at places like Macys. Slicing the mostly colored gems also highlights the natural characteristics of the stones providing interest and again a modernity absent in the standard polished stones. Our favorites were the FashionEdits’-purple amethyst and aquamarine pendants and earrings.
For exquisite artisan, fashion forward pieces look to Daniel Vior Barcelona. Vior’s workshop is located in Eimample, Barcelona which influences his designs with both a cosmopolitan and Mediterranean spirit. You can see the influences of curled silver skyscrapers interplaying with Gaudi’s swirling, tiled artistically twisted buildings set against blue layers of the Mediterranean Sea and firmament above. Using natural gemstones set in 750 (18K) gold and silver galvanized with palladium and rhodium to delay oxidation, Vior crafts 3 dimensional helixing shapes filled with motion. There is also a hint of Calder in the jewelry. For his 2014 series, Vior’s outstanding pieces are the unfolding pod-like Loto, a multi-dimensional orbiting WIV ring and his futuristic Quiaso earrings. According to Vior, “Everything starts when you fall in love with a concept…and it all starts again when this tiny object becomes part of your self expression and language …transmitting its content an emotional and aesthetic significance.”
Gina Pankowski offers a different take on kinetic jewelry. Inspired by how her body was screwed, stapled and wired back together after a serious motorcycle accident at 17, Pankowski’s jewelry is beyond architectural and truly “made to move.” In the artist’s words “Color attracts. Texture seduces. Yet the structure that underlies the beauty of the world is what intrigues me most…pieces come to life with movement when you touch them. Your every move creates interesting patterns and sounds. The pieces are more like choreography than sculpture.” At the show, Pankowski was showing her Metropolis collection of gem studded roller coaster rings and scaling necklaces.
Danish National rugby star centre forward, 26 year old Nicklas Bendtner somehow found time to start Noble, a men’s jewelry line. Noble proved so popular, ladies demanded a women’s line. It wasn’t just because this footballer is gorgeouser. By the way Bendtner is taken- by a baroness. Noble was featuring two ranges, Signature and the Wildlife. Signature comes in Sterling silver in a light or dark rhodium plating and Wildlife in Sterling, both mounted on stingray bracelets and necklaces. Retail prices start around $165.
Peach Fine Jewelry out of Nashville was the rock and roll brand at the show. Combining pearls with natural materials, Vincent Peach turns out some very cool jewelry in his Nashville studio. We’re craving his layered pearl lariats that conjure up fantasies of stepping out of the sea like Aphrodite dripping in his luminescent necklaces. Earrings and necklaces that resemble peacock feathers are a nice way to style country western, and Peach’s cuffs are a great option for men.
Just in time for the Tibet House Benefit Concert at Carnegie Hall, Tibet Craft Inc. showed a generous collection of heirloom Tibetan crafts and Buddha charms. Their silver cuffs and necklaces clearly stand out as strong fashion statements, hinting of John Hardy’s weaving prints and strategic oxidization highlighting texture. Prices are very good.
2” crystalized Fiji water bottles and Jesus heads are available at America’s Silver, appealing to a totally different market than above. America’s Silver specializes in micropav’e and micro-prong, which produce the glorious Jesus heads, crosses and chains. True to the brand’s “individual in style” approach, items are unique. Standard, smaller scaled items are also available in the micropav’e.
There were also many new designers of note at JANY’s winter trade show. Among these were Seattle based Shannon Koszyk’s urban style reminiscent of rosary bead necklaces and earrings and Florida’s Silvia Iglesias Designs, airy designs with an emphasize on earrings.
FashionEdits thanks Michelle Orman for her insight and help on this article.