Fashion Group (FGI’s) Trend Fashion Report Review
|Even before the last model strutted back from her walk at the last of the global fashion shows, false eyelashes fluttering onto the stage behind her, trends were already being classified, ranked and sorted for copy. Fashion Group International (FGI) held a conference to discuss them with the lovely Diane von Furstenberg presiding as chair over a panel of representatives from Neiman Marcus, SFA, Macys, InStyle and blogger, Bryanboy.Von Furstenberg was so vibrant and clever, we thought we’d start with the Q&A part and then coverF/W’13’s trends.What did everyone think of Hedi Slimane’s collection for Saint Laurent Paris?This question was approached with great delicacy, “At first I was mad and… then I evaluated each piece on its own (and appreciated itmore),” one panelist started. DVF explained that she knew both Yves Saint Laurent and Slimane very well. She indicated she didn’t know what to think at first but then reasoned that while Slimane went for shock value in this collection, he did so with an adherence to the YSL’s brand or “DNA”with
exquisite tailoring and the “perfect leather jacket.”
Did Phoebe Philo rip-off Bill Blass’s coat?
The panel decided that while it was strikingly similar, it was not pattern plagiarism but rather a close reference. In essence, he didn’t inhale.
What to make of John Galliano at Oscar de la Renta?
Once again, DVF knew both parties well- John from his early twenties, when he started out, and was at his first show. “John” DVF explained, had been bullied when he was younger but then achieved a lot of stature, power and money at an early age through his enormous talent. Power and money gave Galliano the freedom to indulge his eccentricities. Galliano sort of lived in his own reality. Further, he developed a substance abuse problem. DVF questioned if the people involved in the incident at L’Absinthe had deliberately gone there to mock and taunt Galliano while he was in a vulnerable state. Galliano’s rant, where he declared he loved Hitler, caused him to be fired from House of Dior. DVF tactfully explained that she had relatives who “died in the camps,” and while Galliano’s words and actions at the time were inexcusable, she does not believe he meant them, nor is he anti-Semitic. She furthered that Galliano has done much to repent since the incident.
What about that “shocking” Vuitton film promoting prostitution their F/W’13 collection?
No one on the panel or audience remembered having seen the film but after the person asking the question explained the film glamorized prostitution, DVF quipped a line from one of her jet set friends, “Ladies want to be treated like whores and whores like ladies.” She went on to sweetly declare she was against human trafficking. Vuitton has since removed the video from general view.
Who put those handbags on the runway?
Panelist and head buyer at SFA’s accessories, Ann Marie Pimental, explained that design houses have moved away from “It” bags and now feature “core-collections.” DVF added that designers want to show clothes, and it’s the marketing people who force them to add handbags and other accessories to the shows.
Finally, Bryanboy asked: Why does fashion cost so much?
Bryanboy explained that if he wants a simple t-shirt, his choices are limited to going to Uniqlo or paying almost $200 for a t-shirt from Theory. A few weak answers later, none mentioning the decline of child labor or strengthening of the yuan, DVF again nailed it with her statement that there is more choice now than ever before, and you can pay anything for anything. The key is to create fashion that sparks emotion in the consumer, motivating them to spend their disposable income on a garment.
In regard to F/W’13 trends, FGI’s Marylou Luther observed the following:
“Gender-blending” involves a lot of silky sleepwear and sheer nothings set against masculine shapes, tailoring and fabrics. Examples include feminine pajamas covered by large cut mannish coats by fashionable pimp, Marc Jacobs, and less scandalously at Saint Laurent Paris. Jacobs belted his man coats, making them more fem and preventing the feminine silhouette from getting lost. This trend also includes girlish bows on mannish brogues at Lanvin and jackets at Dries Van Noten, slouchy pants at Diesel Black, boxy blazers at Rag & Bone and Michael Kors, and pantsuits at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Jumpers also appear as a secondary trend to downplay the sexuality of the lingerie and contribute to the fullness of cut and 1940’s retro overtones this coming season.
Carrying over from S/S’13, over-sized shapes, rounded shoulders and loose fits saturate the seasons’ runways. Look for double-breasted jackets and wrap closures as seen at Gareth Pugh, Max Mara (they always do this, so for Max Mara, its brand feature not trend), Dries Van Noten, Derek Lam, Carven and Phoebe Philo for Celine.
All this extra fabric means less skin is revealed, and there is more clothing to sell at justifiably higher prices. Remind your customers of all the money they’ll save on heating! Dolce & Gabbana took modesty to the extreme, cloistering bodies behind almost religious garb, very luxurious religious garb (clearly designed before Pope Francis was anointed and went anti-fashion.) Other designers, like Ralph Lauren and Valentino, interpret cover up to mean cover up in lace and velvet.
Subtleties to look for in the aforementioned trends include modernized versions of 20’s, 30’s, 40’s, 80’s and 90’s fashions. Vuitton puts a modern spin on its 20’s and 40’s film noir vixens by splattering the bottoms of coats with sequins and changing up the cuts a little bit. Stella McCartney, Celine and Carven strip the shoulder pads from their 80’s influenced fashions.
Perhaps the most eagerly anticipated and incidentally best selling redux collection was Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent Paris grungy punk. Slimane smelled up the runway with leather, Seattle plaid and spikey 90’s Teen Spirit rocker shock models decked out in designs Courtney Love wishes and will probably claim to have been the creator of, or at least to have slept with. Slimane tempers the hard edges with babydoll dresses. FE would wear this, oh wait, we already do but could use more.
Just as FE predicted, white, b/w, green, blue, purple(!) and carmine red are in. Additionally, you’ll see camel, pastels, grey and pink. Yes, pink has been unbanned and will no longer be associated with Victoria’s Secret.
Fabrics get the faux treatment where Dior’s old leather is actually crackle-painted fabric; Kenzo’s crocodile is really flocked lame. Best faux effect is Chanel’s “tweed,” composed of embroidery on sheer. Plastic and neoprene also misrepresent themselves in clever ways at Rodarte and Jason Wu.
Dolce & Gabbana, Rochas and McQueen strike their collections with religious themes. McQueen’s are the best and most lavish. Interpretations of McQueen will inspire many knock-offs and concert tour wardrobes. Cavalli is guilty of this, too.
Grunge and punk mean plaid and plaid it is. Edun, Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent make nightclub worthy plaids while Celine and Dior are more menswear inspired.
Pop art at Tom Ford and Gucci, Warhol homages at Dior, and digital influences at Thakoon, Marni, Katrantzou. DVF made the best dress of the season in an animal print. Bugs are trendy, too.
Fur and leather are being pushed hard. Luther describes Fendi’s fur-centric collection as “the exceptional artistry…taking fur to the pinnacle of haute.” FE found same collection to be in poor taste and mostly an unsaleable disaster and tragic waste of poor animals’ lives. Marni and Jacobs’ fur fashion were far more desirable, though somewhat dated. As for leather, vegan has a higher level of universal appeal and affordability. Luther was particularly impressed by the intarsias and patchworks.
Again, symbolic of the mixed up seasons resulting from global warming, white sticks around for the winter. White footwear trecks down F/W runways with the best being McQueen’s shoes, Chanel’s creamy thigh hugging boots and handbags. Menswear shoes appeal to tall and mannish girls who crave loafers and oxfords. Seriously though, when was the last time someone swooned over a flat-heeled shoe? For that matter, how many tumblers are dedicated to flats? Similar shoes are available with heels for petite ladies who don’t want to trip on too generously cut trousers. Rag & Bone masters the platform flat.
Toes are pointy-ouch! There’s ankle support with Gillie styles. Saint Laurent’s rocker moto-boots are cravable. Shame I already have 7 pair like them.
Handbags match outfits, even down to structure, and have handy handles so they can slip tightly onto your arm, freeing your hands to hold drinks and a cell phone. Carpetbags and decadent backpacks also are in style. Belts are essential to reign in all those boxy styles.
To top it off, cloches and gloves are all over. Alexander Wang’s fur boxing gloves are adorable but possibly only practical for photo shoots and kickboxing in cold gyms.
Fall’s hair is heroin chic, only cleaner looking this time around. Braids and undone hair thankfully remain in fashion, replacing the ubiquitous keratinized Kasdashian long, straight and dark do’s.
Make-up is minimal, except for velvety lips mimicking the velvet clothing.
So bundle up because in the name of Stark House “Winter is coming.”