Coterie- continues to grow
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Coterie continues to grow under Emilie Cooke’s direction, now attracting almost a quarter million retail industry professionals. Fall Winter 2014’s show at Jacob Javits Center was heavily packed February 23-25th, and vendors reported better than expected orders.
TMRW showcased emerging brands and was twice as large as the last Coterie. FashionEdits names the most notable designers below.
Singapore sent an impressive delegation of new designers including Ange Revolte, Stl Myl, Dzojchen, Pauline Ning and Georgine.
Pay attention to Ange Revolte. This Singapore brand, with a little French je ne sais quois,impressed FashionEdits with its unapologetically flattering styles, quality fabric and construction at sweet price points. For immediate shipment and FW, Ange Revolte has two themes- sport and modern sophisticate. Of the many amazing pieces, we loved their cut-away jacket, neoprene- hooded dress and neoprene asymmetrical bustier. Bonus that the cuts are forgiving, highlighting assets and smoothing distracting body line interferences.
Soft-spoken Kolin Chang launched his first collection of Styl Myl in September 2013, emphasizing striped-down crisp lines based on geometry and architectural structures executed in natural and technical fabrics from Japan. Chang showed his top sellers: the prim Jimmy’s Torch Top- perfect for the modern day Audrey Hepburn; a cute Tulip Turnover Skirt- perfect for me and the On Wednesdays We Wear Black Dress- a long sheath with pockets inspired by tire marks.
A beautiful mix of part English-part Singaporean, Chelsea Scott-Blackhall designs Dzojchen (doh-jen) to balance dualities, which results in a highly individual aesthetic. Both men’s and women’s lines emphasize slim cuts in denim and leather. FW 2014 women’s was on display at Coterie and had a Patti Smith vibe with androgynous close tailored jackets and rad Double Monk boots in pebbled leather with toe caps.
Urban researcher in easy to fit shapes is the theme behind Pauline Ning’s cozy line of coats and separates. Ning offsets symmetry and scale to achieve interest and then uses color to balance and tame the well-thoughtout chaos of her designs. FW 2014 is a salute to origami in blues, black and pale pink accents.
Also part of the Singapore continent at Coterie, is Georgine Ratelband’s brand Georgine, offering a sleek feminine range of clothing, accessories and handbags. Ratelband’s aesthetic is glamorous world traveler with references to the 1940’s and 1950’s. Her FW 2014 collection highlights are a deep blue and red print satin dress, slim fitting print pants and luxurious skirts.
Laveer is another brand to keep on your radar. Designed by blonde and beautiful former Shopbop fashion director, Kate Ciepluch, Laveer, manufactured in NYC, consists of well designed sporty separates with that cool it factor. Clothing is multi-functional, in that one could wear it to most 9-5 jobs and then go directly to snow board, followed by hot spiked-cider by the fire. Laveer reminds me of Rag & Bone with the mix of sporty, vintage and relaxed minimal lining comfort but with Ciepluch’s touch is totally different. Her jackets and leather crops are key purchases.
Former Cosmopolitan editor, Rebecca Cohen conceived Loveshackfancy many years ago while growing up in hazy enchanted summers spilt between Europe’s beach communities and the Hamptons. Her mother, another magazine editor, actually came up with the name and patented it in the oughts. Each garment, with names like Love dress, is hand-dyed or painted in the USA, and reminiscent of what beach goddesses wear. Or is the Hampton’s lovechild of Tallulah Getty and Marci Klein. While the cuts favor tall women, the fabrics are divine to all, especially their Indigo line.
Vikings are the theme of NY produced Pvblic’s FW 14 line for men and women. Jayme Thaler and Tara Ocello coordinate cultures and regions to offer coordinating men’s and women’s lines based on their theme des saisons. Best bets from the Vikings series are the goddess tunics and arrow print sportswear.
For real deal Vikings, walk a few steps north to Gudrun & Gudrun where Gudrun Rogvadottir travelled all the way from Denmark’s Faroe Islands to sell her version of Icelandic sweaters 3.0. Expect brilliant colors (those brilliant pastels trending for Spring and Fall) and avante garde knits of intarsia mixes alongside the traditional Faroese patterns for both men and women. Somehow Gudrun makes lace overlaid atop fluffy woolens work. Gudrun & Gudrun are well known and highly desired in Europe but relatively unknown in the USA. Possibly not for long.
Fellow Viking, Norwegian Veronica B. Vallenes, showed a beautiful pink mohair coat along side other pretty, streamlined separates. Vallenes’ prices are friendly, especially for the level of quality found in the range.
Dusica Dusica are well known for funky Italian shoes but were at Tomorrow to launch their new ready to wear series. The reference point is 1970’s posh with boxy cuts on double face cashmere felts and funky prints.
We love watching young designer Daniel Silverstein grow his eponymous brand launched last year. For FW 2014 Daniel came up with a stunning purgatory line drawing design that really sets him apart from other brands at Coterie and elevates his particular line. All his clothing is produced in NYC, and he’s expanding his looks.
In Coterie’s main area we were excited to see Zac Zac Posen’s handbag line that is sure to give Micheal Kors’ purses a run for their money. Perhaps a sign of this is Posen taking on Kors’ role on Project Runway ,meaning an abundance of press and recognition for the brand. Posen’s bags come in neo-classic shapes, small to large, that convey status and feminine worth. All Posen has to do to seal the deal, aside from smile and exude personality on Project Runway, is to offer a taste of his purses at discount through off-price retailers like TJ Maxx to wet America’s appetite for Posen.
Coterie’s other highlights include Marchesa’s diffusion line, Voyage. Voyage’s FW 14 line stood out in its prettiness and exceptional detailing. For immediate delivery Georgina and Keren offer diluted versions of their main collection’s embrodied pieces including a striking blue knit dress. For FW 14 the girls feature an attractive slim-fitting intricately printed pant suit and more embroidered looks. Voyage’s prices are far lower than the couture line, offering good value for those with serious feminine tastes.
Yigal Azrouel‘s Cut 25 takes texture and print to new levels for FW 2014. Blue and cranberry are key for his latest range.
Parker continues to charm and draw big crowds. You’ll see a dark mood with less of their signature beading.
After spending a weekend shopping with teens in from Switzerland, I recognized Vancouver natives, Carla and Daniel Hog’s company, Gentle Fawn, as ideal for that demographic. Now located in LA, the duo’s pretty and affordable clothing line channels trends popular in media minus overt sexuality or primness, meaning Gentle Fawn won’t upset parents while not boring teens. True to the thrift store chachkas that inspired the brand’s name, Gentle Fawn has an intrinsic softness to it with easy on the eye prints and breezy shapes. There’s even a bit of Roxy surfer girl appeal, probably a fortunate carryover from Daniel Hog’s old surf company Surfer X.
Tie dye lives on at Brightly Twisted. Brightly Twisted offers lux organic hand-dyed scarves and clothing, all made in Michigan by couple Greg and Tammy Bourque, former Montessori teachers. While the scarves are yummy in that pashmina-like way, the clothing is even more interesting. A t-back maxi dress or or beach lounger pants are the perfect apres yoga look. I’m craving their tie-dye boy shorts in the Pewabic palette, meaning pilates is in my future.
More quality boho-inspired wear could be found at Mes Demoiselles out of the Larte Foussard Showroom. For Fall they have peasant tops and slouchy dresses of the type highly desired by girls 13-25 years old of acceptable quality and reasonable prices.
Katy Xiomara was the star of Coterie’s top floor with the two collections of her signature range and her Peanuts commemorative edition. Xiomara was fresh off a stellar show at NOLCHA and riding a wave of favorable press and celeb attention. Not bad for a girl from Portugal. Xiomara’s designs have an early 60’s Jean-Luc Godard vibe to them, which is very in fashion in LA. Expect subdued but unusual color and print combinations that subtly emphasize and flatter without screaming for attention. Garments are made of high quality fabrics by skilled craftsmen in NYC and Portugal. Xiomara’s Peanuts line will send fans of the cartoon into nostalgic bliss with Charlie Brown zig zags that could easily be mistaken for Missoni but are much more playful and fresh.
Other memorable brands in Coterie’s River Pavilion area include Shi Cashmere of London, specializing in artesanal quality Scottish cashmere so fantastic it has been archived in the Fashion Gallery of the V&A Museum for Shi’s innovation. Shi is a graduate of famed Central Saint Martins; so it is no surprise her appliquéd and uniquely constructed designs stand out from your ho hum cashmeres.
Toronto Canadian sisters Naomi and Devorah Shapiro are the force behind Rock & Karma. With its totally packable, machine-washable, predominately black aesthetic, Rock & Karma reminded me of the heroine Kinsey Milhone from Sue Grafton’s alphabet detective series who depended on similar garments to get by as a P.I. . FW 2014 is about City Chic versus Country Ease. Their purple on black series are striking and indestructible.
Marche Showroom carries several notable mid-to-high end brands of French origin. Poles carries sumptuous cashmeres, and Lanjaenicke is more corporate. Everything is made in France of quality fabrics.
Hot in Britain, but relatively unknown in the USA, Joules deals in sporty but sweet women’s and children’s clothes. It’s like if taking early Kate Spade and Alice & Olivia outside to the garden and to ride horses.
Overall trends at Coterie Reflect those at couture levels of fashion-relaxed, boxy shapes, architectural aspirations, dominance of blacks and white with some blue, red and green and a limited amount of prints.
Many thanks to Joe Yang, here with the Eric Beamon brooch, and Gia Gennuso of Seveth House for their help with this piece.
By: Elizabeth B Maher