Accessorie review -Enk Intermezzo
Intermezzo, held at Piers 92 and 94 . FE identified these gems.
Belgian designer, Catherine De Groote is the creative force behind Caths. Caths is both boldly beautiful and eco-sensitive, using only sustainable natural materials, ethically sourced animal products and biodegradable paints. Designs are basic but strong and tactile. You need only one piece, and Caths’ jewelry will entirely “make” an outfit. Prices start at an affordable $30.
Jewelry by the books is not as bad as it sounds at Jeanine Payer. Payer’s is a Showroom 7 brand, featuring jewelry engraved with quotes and sayings from literature. It’s not a new concept but also doesn’t seem clichéd in the way Payer does it, possibly because she’s a gifted craftswoman, and the jewelry stands on its own design, with the quotes adding nostalgic mystery. It all reminds me of a romanticized vision of late 1940’s and 50’s when people wrote letters and were sentimental. Payer markets beautifully, carving out niches in vintage book covers to hold pieces of the collection.
Sibilia of Buenos Aires is an Argentine company also under Showroom 7’s wing. The look: tarnished, weathered and perfect to accessorize with a leather bikini, summer frock or weekend knit. Everything is lightweight but looks heavy. You may have Red Sonya fantasies. Necklaces, cuffs and earrings all run under $150.
“The snap is back!” at hat maker, Christy’s London. FE thought them tops at D&A http://www.fashionedits.com/blog/da-ny/ and equally dapper at Intermezzo. Christy’s, like Burberry, is an established English brand. This UK milliner has been turning out hats since 1748, and while retaining their traditional styles are also heading into more urban directions. Christy’s has rad snap back baseball caps emblazoned with “Brooklyn,” the borough that won’t stop. It doesn’t look hokey either. My first thought was to take them to Holland and sell them at a 3x mark up. As a sun eschewer, I was drawn to their massive straw sunnies and snazzy well cut derbies. Pricing is very fair for the quality, starting at $22.
Brooklyn based Morrissey, no relation to the Morrissey of The Smiths, specializes in leggings and customized asymmetrical t-shirts, running from $28-$158. At Intermezzo they were cashing in on the Met’s Chaos to Couture show for decorating their booth. They really didn’t need to and besides, their friendly in-house artist was more hip-hop than punk, but still more punk than the Met. Their legging styles run from basic with cute detailing reminiscent of scaled back Rag & Bone to essential leather accented types.
Back to jewelry. Evocateur, based in Connecticut, carries an extensive line of handmade 22k gold and silver leaf over brass sealed with enamel jewelry with Swarovski elements. Mari Gyorgyey and her partner are prolific in their collections with Humphrey’s Safari Medieval, Floriculture and Casino Royal being favorites. Prices average $40-$145, with some a little higher.
Swallow is completely out of place at Intermezzo but something about owner/artist, Ria Charisse, screams naturally uncomfortable. Charisse’s air of social weirdness is apparent in her art or craft, making Swallow truly unique and like nothing else at the show or really anywhere. Swallow markets itself as more of a curiosity shop than a boutique, with their booth set up as a tarnished, yet meticulously and obsessively placed, collection of oddities. It’s a disturbingly brilliant sales tactic that draws you in where you’ll, of course, find something in Charisse’s prolific designs. There are little statues ranging from $2-a-piece starfish and $5 scary initials to more expensive dead titmouses. Her woodpecker skull necklaces are hands-down-favorite-must-have from the show, at around $70.
Lots of promising new presenters this show. Jen Pleasant’s company, Show the Love, out of San Francisco, handcrafts jewelry from recycled materials. Pleasant’s optimistic spirit is so infectious, it might even convert a few cynics. It’s basically charms meant to impart the wearer with power and protection, all backed by Pleasant’s good spirits, well wishes and a touch of mirth. Her Aladdin’s lamp and Phoenix are –ahh, charming.
Two French girls and their need to finance life on Chilean beaches led to the founding of Hipanema. In other words, “Why didn’t I think of this?” Hipanema makes bracelets and bikinis accented with the bracelets. I think they would be swept away in the surf but would look great until then. Bikinis pieces go for $100, so maybe they do stay on while boarding.
Even more exotic is Melissa Sunjaya’s company Tulisan out of Jakarta. Mostly bags and scarves, Tulisan’s designs and presentation are transporting and magical in a Griffin and Sabine or Myst way. Each collection under the brand has a foreign and romantic story and distinct line centric graphic. You’ll want everything.
Orchident, is a family project of Aarti and Sharad Jains, featuring cashmere, silk and cotton scarves with unique prints and designs. Their digital print and lace collection stand out as must haves.
Aussies Charles Lichaa and Anthony Nohra’s 8 Other Reasons make well priced plated rings and cuffs that could double as weapons. Perfect! Pointy spikes, hard edges clever enough to get past club security or to wear to a wedding luncheon. Seriously though, the designs are not cheap and trashy. Their Compulsive Cuff is an easy $30.
LA company Izzy and Ali carry stylish vegan handbags topping at $95. They make a nice alternative to leather and vinyl.
Finally, Parisian Marie-Laure Chamorel’s line of jewelry features long sautoir necklines and marchetta cuffs. It’s hip jewelry with a credible degree of elegance that is multi-functional, allowing the wearer to dress it up or down. Her lariats are understatedly expensive and cool. She works in brass, beads and crystals.